Liberty of Rhinebeck
Americana Tavern at the Starr Building
by Carol Lee

Liberty of Rhinebeck offers a panoply of eclectic American food with an emphasis on local, farm raised products served in four different and beautifully designed rooms. Sergia Rebraca, son and owner with his parents, Patricia and Nick (who also own Arielle and the Belvedere Inn) said he looked around town at the other restaurants and menus. Rhinebeck already has Thai, French, Italian many times over, bistro times two, tapas, Mexican, steakhouses, a diner and still other cuisines. So he decided to offer foods and prices that were both different and affordable, to set themselves apart from the rest. He proudly referred to his chef, Roberto Mosconi, who oversees all three restaurants, as “master and commander.”

Liberty of Rhinebeck replaces Starr Place, and what they’ve done to the place warrants your attention, which it will get, along with your admiration. The two dining rooms, one with a large bar and a casual side-bar and five booths were filled to capacity under low lighting and walls decorated with memorabilia, antique uniforms, paintings, and deer heads ad infinitum. The other dining room is also decorated to the nines, with tufted red banquettes, American flags, wooden tables and pewter plates. There’s a fair-weather bar on the side of the restaurant with the most gorgeous antique Egyptian gates. Check out that bar, when it opens again in the spring. Downstairs is a large sinuous area, furnished like a comfortable living room, with live entertainment, dancing, and another bar.

I ate at Liberty during their “soft opening,” and it all went swimmingly. It was 65 degrees on an early October evening, before sunset, and among the tables and chairs outside, one held particular interest—nestled in a corner with a heat lamp overhead —so we nabbed it. The tables have an attractive star motif in mosaic tiles, each with pewter plates. A platter of homemade biscuits arrived, warm, crumbly and redolent with herbs. Perusing the menu, we both pounced on the matzoh ball soup, with lots of firm carrots, celery, parsley and light, homemade matzoh balls. American as apple pie!

There was also onion soup ($8), a trilogy of salads ($7–$8), and a list of “bites”: Assault and Batter buffalo rock shrimp with blue cheese dip ($12); Devils on Horseback, organic dates stuffed with blue cheese; grilled catfish taco (each $7)—and potato pancakes with apple sauce and sour cream ($10).

For dinner there was meat loaf with whipped potatoes and tomato gravy ($16), braised short ribs with peach barbecue sauce on white hominy grits ($22), which I highly recommend. My friend had the crispy duck leg with autumn sprouts, pistachio and minted yogurt with celery root puree (also $22 and very nice). Next time I want to try the baked hake (a thick, white, juicy cut of fish), citrus gremolata with roasted cherry tomatoes on lentils ($24); There’s beer-battered fish and sweet potato fries with tarragon lemon sauce ($16); grilled skirt steak and roasted veggies, with red wine sauce, served on a cutting board which, the woman at the next table scarfed down ($22); Peruvian spiced organic chicken with yellow rice and sweet bananas at ($18); trout in brown butter, wild rice and confetti root veggies ($20), and a potpourri of pastas at ($18), all house-made fresh earlier the same day, mind you.

For dessert we shared a small ceramic pot of pumpkin pannacotta, made with fresh pumpkin, light and creamy with walnuts and a butter cookie. Others were the usual flourless chocolate cake, and a variety of pears and ice cream (all at $8). My next time there, on a Saturday night, they also had several specials, including a moist salmon entrée and for dessert a banana cream pie worth going off your diet for.

There are a few beers on tap, more in the bottle. Wines are strictly American, NY and CA, and Sergia mentioned that two of Tousey’s favored wines—the Queen of Clermont and the Pinot Noir—were both being added to his menu. My dinner, without wine, came to $35.

Liberty serves lunch and dinner daily from noon to closing on weekdays and brunch beginning at 11 on the weekends. My country ‘tis of thee....

Liberty Of Rhinebeck, 6417 Montgomery Street, 845-876-1760. Open Monday through Thursday noon till 11 pm, Friday until 2 am; Saturday 11 am till 2 am; Sunday 11 am till 11 pm.

Food Bulletin:

Nick Rebraca has opened a new Italian alimentari where Leonardo’s used to be, in The Courtyard in Rhinebeck. Here you can enjoy high-end Italian foods with a varied menu of soups, salads, platters, panini, cheese and hams, crepes and sweets. No liquor license as of this writing, just a beautiful little place with really nice food. Next door will be Betsy Jacaruso’s new studio. Check it out!

Tavola Rustica: Wednesday–Sunday 10am–6pm, The Courtyard, 51 E. Market St.