Another Starr in Rhinebeck's Crown
by Cait Johnson

The old Rhinebeck Grille, known for years as the Starr Bar, had an atmosphere all its own: scruffy and unpretentious, with food to match. Enter new owners, a facelift, an updated menu, and voila! Rhinebeck now boasts yet another praiseworthy eatery. The old booths are gone, replaced by sleek black tables. Vases of curly willow and strategically-placed candles, along with several abstract paintings, have utterly changed the ambiance. And the menu is a treat.

After I got some interesting news, my pal Maggie insisted we go to Starr Place to regroup, so the first thing we checked out was the drinks menu. Any place that serves Mother's Milk on draft earns a thumbs-up from me right off the bat, but they have other great beer-type offerings (including an easy-to-drink honey-citrus Dogfish Ale) as well as an interesting and competent wine list, and some really unusual cocktails (Flannel Sheets and Bee's Knees, for instance).

We sampled several appetizers: the chopped salad with broccoli, cauliflower, and zucchini was tasty, and a grilled squid with baby arugula was divine (we're still trying to figure out what was in the dots of salsa verde artfully arrayed around the squid. Kale? Spinach? It was nicely earthy, whatever it was). But the real treat was the mussel pot, a cunning stainless steel pot with a top that converts handily to a receptacle for shells. You can get the mussels three different ways; we opted for the thyme/shallot with shellfish broth (which was so heavenly we briefly considered slurping it right from the pot). We finished the meal with a refreshing pink grapefruit sorbet, but they have other dessert temptations as well, including a bourbon crème brulée and a chocolate paté. I'm watching my waistline, pre-holiday, or you can bet I would have succumbed to one of those.

The entrées offer something for everyone, whether meat-eater, chicken-fancier, seafood-lover, or vegetarian, along with seasonal soups, salads, and several appetizers, all with a slightly different twist.

Our server was a helpful sweetheart, the kitchen kindly served our shared portions on separate plates, and the final bill was reasonable. New owners Larry Bank and Arlin Smith, as well as chef Roberto Mosconi, are to be commended. The evening soothed my soul and reminded me that friendship and pleasure can heal almost anything.

Starr Place is open for lunch and dinner, Thursday through Tuesday. They also do carry-out (6417 Montgomery St., next to Upstate Films; 845-876-2924).