Warren Street Sampler
Hudson's Restaurant Row
Swoon Kitchenbar
Although I have certainly described my fair share of fine meals, my recent dinner at Hudson's Swoon Kitchenbar was simply the best meal I have ever had in the Hudson Valley, period. Experienced chefs Jeffrey Gimmel and Nina Bachinsky took vibrantly fresh, local seasonal ingredients and created food so intensely flavorful I thought I had reached restaurant-reviewer's Nirvana.
Swoon looks deceptively small from the sidewalk outside, but inside is a spacious European-style bistro with a nice big bar, beautiful local artwork, and an authentic pressed-tin ceiling. We sat in the front room, where the atmosphere was so cozy and the service so friendly and adept that we felt instantly relaxed and at home. The food at home, however, was never quite like this. I could rhapsodize over my pappardelle noodles with organic mushrooms and fresh sheep cheese, and my date's wild king salmon with white bean puree, spinach, and wild mushroom broth was simply divine, the most delicious salmon either of us had ever tasted. Everything at Swoon, including the ecstasy-producing pistachio praline ice cream accompanying our warm Valrhona chocolate cake, is impeccably house-made. And the prices were so stunningly reasonable, we -double-checked the bill to see if something had been left off. It hadn't; I'm not sure the shock has worn off yet. I may live in Rhinebeck, Fine Restaurant Capital of the world, but I would drive from a lot farther away than Hudson for another Swoon experience.
—Cait Johnson
Swoon Kitchenbar, 340 Warren Street, is open from 11:30 to 10:30 Sunday through Tuesday, and 11:30 to 11:00 Thursday through Saturday. They accept reservations. Call them at 518-822-8938.
Bolgen & Moi
Curiosity prompted me to book a table at Bolgen & Moi after learning that this popular Norwegian restaurant chain (there are six in Norway) had opened its first U.S. outpost in Hudson. Luckily, the restaurant is nothing like the Ikea cafeteria-meets-the-Olive Garden prototype I had pictured to myself. Entering, we passed through the bustling bar/cafe. Arriving at our table (with a view of the lovely rear deck, overlooking an herb garden), my husband and I noticed that the table setting seemed awry—with the tines of two forks intertwined on each plate and the wine glasses on their sides. "We like to set our tables in unconventional ways," explained Bolgen & Moi manager, Frode Skarpas: "sometimes we place small salad plates atop wine glasses or flatware inside the wine glasses!" Co-owners Toralf Bolgen and Trond Moi come by this playful, capricious spirit honestly. After all, they opened their first restaurants in art galleries.
The Bolgen & Moi menu is billed as "French cuisine with Scandinavian flair," which translates, we discovered, into starters like Parma ham-wrapped asparagus served with a foamy asparagus "cappacino," and a mango-topped tuna tartare flanked by two separate tumblers, one filled with sesame salad and the other with cucumber "slush." The presentation was fun and quirky, and equally fun to eat. My husband then opted for the Parmesan-baked veal chops laced in lemongrass sauce (accompanied by a slender flute of Caesar salad), a solid choice, though we barely detected the lemongrass. I savored a parma-wrapped halibut with fried "spicy" risotto—thoroughly tasty, though not particularly spicy. Our desserts, like gorgonzola "pizza" with port-glazed figs and lemon-orange tart served with pistachio and white chocolate pesto and a shot of capirihana granita, were runaway hits.
The brasserie menu changes seasonally and, where possible, incorporates local Hudson Valley ingredients. A big part of Bolgen & Moi's appeal is that there's something for everyone. For a real taste of Norway, you can try the fish soup, grilled Norwegian gravlax or smoked salmon. And there's a casual bar menu, too, featuring a smorgasbord of soups, salads, omelettes, open-faced sandwiches, pizza and burgers.
—Kathryn Matthews
Bolgen & Moi Bar & Brasserie (518-671-6380), 136 Warren Street, is open 11am to 11:30pm, Wed.-Mon. Brasserie Menu: Appetizers ($6-$17); entrees ($12-$29). Tasting menus: 3-course for $35, 5 course for $55 and 7 course for $70.
Earth Foods
One frigid January afternoon four years ago, after an antiques binge in Hudson, my husband and I discovered Earth Foods on Warren Street. Wandering in hungry and cold, and settling into one of the blond wood tables, we ordered soups: for him the long-simmered black bean, and for me the Indian split pea, thick, stew-like and spiked with curry. Not a word was spoken until we scraped the bottom of our bowls. This winter we will be back again to warm ourselves on enticing specials like hubbard squash bisque, vegetable lasagna, and shepherd's pie.
Earth Foods is a popular lunchtime haunt, but on weekends we occasionally make a special trip here to jumpstart our day with one of their healthy and delicious breakfasts. I always start with one of their freshly squeezed juices (usually the crimson-hued apple-beet-lemon-ginger conconction), then usually return to my favorite: multi-grained French toast pan crisped and served with a side of warm, cinnamon-flecked applesauce. My husband, while sometimes flirting with the huevos rancheros or scrambled egg burrito, usually falls for the avocado and white cheddar cheese-filled egg-white omelette.
Owners Duffy and Salvador Sanchez opened Earth Foods in 1997. Their philosophy is simple. "We try to feed others food that we would feed ourselves," says Duffy. Not every item on their menu is organic, but the Sanchezes make a conscious effort to incorporate seasonal, local and organic ingredients wherever possible. They make their own bread and pizza dough, and eggs are often from their own hens (and, sometimes, ducks). Earth Foods is like their second home; they both cook in the kitchen; three of their daughters help out as waitresses and they expect to bring their fourth on board soon. Obviously, it's a family affair.
—Kathryn Matthews
Earth Foods (518-822-1396), 523 Warren Street. Open Mon-Thu 9am to 4pm and Fri-Sun 9am to 5pm. Closed Tuesdays.
Ono
For several years now Peter Maisel, the chef/proprietor of Luna 61, Red Hook's vegetarian natural foods haven, has been dropping rumors about the imminent opening of an "Asian noodle shop" in Hudson. Well, not only has the shop finally opened, but fans of Luna's will be happy to hear that Peter & Co. have outdone themselves once again.
Ono may be vegetarian, but the food is so delicious and filling that it should win over all but the most diehard members of the steak and lobster crowd. The menu features stir-fry noodle and rice dishes and deep-bowled noodle pots with Japanese, Thai, Indian, Vietnamese, and Chinese influences and—most importantly—fresh herbs bursting with taste. During the early dinner my wife and I enjoyed there in mid-October we ordered delicate Vietnamese rice paper spring rolls with basil and mint; Crunchy Thai Tofu on Asian noodle salad, and the special "Sukiyaki" noodle pot full of eggplant, mushrooms, tofu, broccoli, and rice noodles. Slurping the pot to the bottom was a satisfying taste adventure punctuated by the flavors of basil, coriander, watercress and mint.
If you ask me, Ono represents the ultimate refinement of humble "ramen" noodles: comfort food for the Aquarian or any other age. And with their liquor license on the way, I'm sure it won't be long before even the meat & potatoes crowd will be beating down Ono's doors.
—Paul De Angelis
Ono, 243 Warren Street, Hudson, 518-828-2623. Serving dinner 5-10pm, Wednesday to Sunday.
Mexican Radio
I have a great fondness for Mexican folk art, candles in glass holders with pictures of the Blessed Mother on them, margaritas, and good Mexican food, not necessarily in that order. And so it will come as no surprise that I eventually found my way to Mexican Radio. The atmosphere there is so much fun it would still be worth the trip even if the food wasn't as good as it is—and it is good. You will find upscale versions of the usual enchiladas, tacos, and burritos on the menu, along with more exotic options like Mexican Spring Rolls and fish tacos, and you can request vegetarian or vegan rice and beans. Everything we tried was tasty, and while the prices were a little on the high side for Mexican food, they were well within the realm of reasonable. Oh, and be sure to check out their collection of outrageous hot sauces: reading the labels is always good for a laugh.
—Cait Johnson
Mexican Radio (518-828-7770), 537 Warren Street, is open every day from 11:30am to 11pm.
