Teas for Two
by Cait Johnson

When the stress and hustle of American life get to be a bit much, turn off your cell phone, put your computer to sleep, and take a stroll to 55 East Market Street in Rhinebeck, where A Spot of Tea, the new British tea room run by Lou and Angela Jones, offers the kind of civilized respite that Anglophiles like me associate with our friends across the pond. Through the renovation magic of architect David Borenstein, what was once a rather dowdy travel agency has been transformed into a charming home-like place. The pleasant rooms create intimacy without crowding and the atmosphere is refined but not snobbish. There is even a working fireplace; I get blissful just thinking of sitting beside it on one of those blustery days that are just around the corner. You can choose something sweet or savory from the extensive menu of English treats along with a pot of tea over which to ruminate or read a book (or write one). Nobody rushes you. The soothing peace of a more relaxed way of life enters your bloodstream along with the gentle caffeine rush of a really good cup of tea and the consolation of high-quality carbohydrates (fie on Atkins anyway!). You can return to the usual frenzy with lower blood pressure and your faith in humanity (and the benefits of comfort food) restored.

While we visited, my friend and I decided a real treat was in order, so we had the Royal Tea for Two, which turned out to be more than enough for three or four. Our fragrant brew came in a Royal Daulton teapot with matching cups, charmingly gilt-edged and strewn with roses (I was instantly inspired to keep my pinkie up). This particular Set Tea, presented to us on a silver cake stand, included a selection of finger sandwiches (all agreed that the smoked salmon was outstanding) as well as an array of cakes and treats, including a lovely spicy ginger cake and something called a Fairy Cake, a sublime confection of meringue and whipped cream. And the scones were absolutely lovely, served with little tubs of jam and clotted cream (a heavenly high-calorie treat that walks a fine line between whipped cream and butter) to slather on. (My English friend tells me that, on a recent visit here, her very British mum voted these the best scones she had ever had.) My son had the fish and chips and the fish, especially, was delicious. This came with a pea fritter and if, like me, you've never heard of them, much less tasted one, let me tell you: they are worth a try.

Clearly, proprietors Lou and Angela have brought their deep affection for the British homeland into the decorations, the menu, and the prompt and courteous service. There is a pleasing selection of English teas, treats, and Royal Daulton china available for purchase and, while the prices were perhaps a trifle steep, the menu is so intriguing (fish pie, baked potatoes with toppings like mushrooms in cream sauce, scotch eggs, and much, much more) and the atmosphere so appealing, it's easy to understand why so many customers have already become devoted regulars.

A Spot of Tea has quickly become the in-town version of its Clinton Corners predecessor and country cousin, Jeanie Bean's British Tea Room. Located at 2411 Salt Point Turnpike, Jeanie Bean's is rather more Music Hall than Gilbert and Sullivan, but pleasant nonetheless. Lively David Bean, the once-on-Broadway co-proprietor, was lots of fun; his explanation of who gets to be "Mum" (whoever pours the tea, regardless of age of or even gender) made us laugh, and his method of counting out change at the end of our meal was so amusing we didn't get our knickers in a twist even though we endured a bit of a wait (the place was packed to overflowing).

Jeanie Bean's offers British comfort food, very moderately priced, and with absolutely no pretensions: after all, the British are not usually known for their fine cuisine, and the lorry-drivers of that nation would adore the inclusion of HP sauce, Oxo, and Bisto onion gravy to several dishes on the limited but representative menu. My pal enjoyed her fish and chips, which were very much to the American taste; the chips were like elongated tater tots (remember those?) and the fish was thickly battered, fresh, and mild. I can't help but feel nostalgic for the greasy, flabby chips I got hooked on when I lived in Tunbridge Wells many years ago, but I guess one must allow for American tastes when in America. In any case, the chips available both here and at A Spot of Tea give more than a nod to the ideal of McDonald's-style crispness.

Meanwhile Jeanie Bean's bangers (soft brown sausages) and mash were satisfying, stick-to-your-ribs-type food. The tea was good, the teapot homey, and the scones were great, with a generous allotment of jam and clotted cream (here more like American whipped cream) already heaped on top. There is a large rack of great ales next to the counter (my friend bought some Black Douglas Ale to take home to her husband, also named Douglas), as well as English teas, and assorted sweeties. A selection of frozen foods is also available for purchase so you can have pork pies, bangers, and sausage rolls at home. The Beans even sell Lapsang Souchong, a wonderfully smoky tea that is my absolute favorite and next to impossible to find anywhere else. I went home with a little white bag of it, a stuffed and happy woman.

A Spot of Tea is open Wednesday through Sunday from 10 to 6, with breakfasts served Saturday and Sunday from 10 to 11:30am. You can also get fish and chips at the take-away window from 6 to10 pm. 845-876-1842, or visit them online at www.aspotoftea.biz.

Jeanie Bean's is open Saturdays and Sundays only, from 10 to 4. It gets very busy. Call them at 845-266-3800.