Mina: Rhapsody in Food
by Cait Johnson

A fine meal can move us every bit as deeply as a sublime piece of music. Mina, at 29 West Market Street in Red Hook, is the perfect place to be deliciously seduced through food: at Mina, the finest seasonal, local, mostly-organic ingredients—in the hands of a sensitive and inspired chef—become meals that are like rhapsodies.

Those of you who remember Bois d'Arc at the same address will recall Natalie Steward's deft touch because she was the chef there. Now she and her husband, John DiBenedetto (a most genial host and truly knowledgeable about wines) co-own Mina. I enjoyed several lovely meals at Bois d'Arc, but it took me awhile to visit after its reincarnation as Mina four years ago. When I was finally taken there for a birthday celebration, I realized what a culinary concert I had been missing.

First, I loved the decor, which is elegantly minimal, but also intimate and cozy. The pleasingly simple seasonal decorations (a lushly dramatic floral bouquet in July, small sheaves of wheat in September) let me know that the owners are very much in tune with what's happening in the natural world outside their doors. In fact, this seasonal consciousness is the cornerstone of the Mina philosophy: the menu changes weekly and is unfailingly reflective of the best that is available locally.

From the first sip of the silky scallop and sweet corn chowder, I knew we were in the hands of a true maestro. This intriguing prelude was followed by a sublime fresh tagliolini pasta with shrimp and baby octopus in a complex and satisfying fennel-tomato-shellfish broth. My date's robust crisped polenta, roasted eggplant, and spinach torta, accompanied by Beluga lentils, was wonderfully flavorful and earthy, and the salad of locally-grown baby greens with roasted beets and local artisanal blue cheese was served with a piquant honey thyme vinaigrette that teased the tongue.

For dessert I had the flourless chocolate cake. One bite catapulted me into chocolate-lover's heaven; a moist, dense confection with only four ingredients but, believe me, the way they're put together is nothing short of symphonic. The cake came with a dreamy banana ice cream that is made on site—as are all of the ice creams, sorbets, and other desserts.

Meat lovers among us will certainly enjoy the locally-raised selection of meat entrees at Mina, but the restaurant also always offers a vegetarian entree. The prices are no worse than at other high-end local restaurants.

Mina is open for dinner Friday to Sunday, from 5:30 until the last customer leaves. Starting in June, dinners will also be served on Thursdays. (845) 758-5992 or www.minarestaurant.com.