Restaurant Roundup
Spanish Flair in Tivoli, Two Diners, a Falafel Joint, Sushi in the Countryside

There’s a new restaurant in Tivoli at 69 Broadway, a space that has seen any number of eateries come and go over the past decade. But Panzur Restaurant and Wine Bar—specializing in tapas and encouraging the sharing of several small dishes—may just be the taste that’ll make this one linger.

Chef Rei (short for Reinoldo) Peraza’s love of cooking derives from Venezuela, his mother’s country, where he grew up with a Spanish father, and learned to appreciate the flavors of the food (panza means belly, which was part of Rei’s grandfather’s nickname). You may remember Rei as the chef at the Rhinecliff Hotel when it first reopened.

Early in July on a comfortable evening, before the summer became purgatory, I had dinner outside with two Tivoli friends. Two people who were leaving raved about the chicken and I’m doing the same with you, because both chicken entrees were tender, juicy and delightfully spiced. (Rei’s specialty is pork, but these were notable.)

One dish was a special entrée of fried chicken, with honey garlic, smoked paprika, celery hearts and Valden sauce (made with a rich cow and goat’s milk blue cheese). The other was roasted Amish chicken ($17) with Provencal root vegetable ragout and taggiasca olives. There’s also jamon serrano (ham), $11, or house-cured duck breast, $12, and even seafood, steak, and vegetarian plates.

We shared a few tapas as well: migas, made with ham, mushrooms, cheddar cheese, a poached egg, some hot sauce and red eye gravy vinaigrette, really very good ($13).

We also sampled a charcuterie plate of dry-cured chorizo, another of chistorra: grilled sausage, eggplant/piquillo pepper relish each $7 and worth a nod here. There’s also a panoply of cheese plates, and some nice salads, too. If you’re going really light, there are snacks for $5 each: Marcona almonds; a plate of olives or peppers; and crisp pig ear with saffron yogurt aptly named chip & dip.

Proud of his pork recipes, Rei will prepare a feast for you and your friends—up to 10 people—with a 7-hour roasted heritage suckling pig with all the accoutrements, but you’ve got to give him at least three days notice and ante up $200. Not bad for ten people!

69 Broadway, Tivoli. Open for dinner only. 5:30–9:30 pm, closed Sunday and Monday. A smaller late night menu is available until 11 pm. 845-757-1071

— Carol Lee

I love diners but don’t we already have too many in the Hudson Valley? Well the owners of the Eveready Diner in Hyde Park didn’t think so. It was time for an upscale diner right across from the Rhinebeck Fair Grounds. The Eveready opened in May and immediately had a booming business.

All food is made on site and the manager Tony Van de Kerkhoff touted the buttermilk pancakes and Mama’s Roast, a nightly special, as local favorites. I tried typical diner fare: eggs, home fries, toast, and was pleased with it all. On another occasion, my BLT was perfect. The bread seems to be up a notch up from the usual and the bacon was crispy. The coffee was the best I’ve ever had at a diner.

Tony said that local products are used at Eveready and mentioned ice cream from Sinon Farms and Remsburger Maple Farms syrup. The Eveready has a retro decor with many neon signs and Norman Rockwell posters to brighten up the walls. To add to the historic feel, there’s a 1930s soda fountain at the front. The Eveready also has an extensive bar menu.

Route 9 across from the Rhinebeck Fairgrounds, open every day from 6 am to 1 am. 845-876-1900

— Mary Leonard

Going north on Route 9 in the village of Red Hook is the Village Historic Diner. When I taught at Bard, this is where we either planned classes or escaped from them. My colleague always ordered her burger on toast and we both shared the sweet potato fries. All of the food is fresh and Arleen, one of the owners, introduced me to the newest experiment, fried pickles—yes, pickles dipped in batter, deep fried and served with two different sauces. I loved them.

But of course all the mainstream diner food is here as well. I have always enjoyed their turkey sandwiches because the meat is baked on the premises. All desserts are home baked. Who can resist a slice of pie? And where can you get two eggs, potatoes, toast and the bottomless cup of coffee for $4.25?

In addition to the historic diner being a great place to eat or hangout, it is an asset to the community. Arleen told me about one elderly woman who eats all three meals at the diner. The diner also supports local schools, agencies, teams and the art council. The Village diner has been used in many movies, including a recent one centering on a returning Vietnam Vet.

7550 N. Broadway, Red Hook, open 7 days a week, 6 am–9 pm, 845-758-6232

— Mary Leonard

Travel north on Route 9 into the village of Hudson and you may be surprised to find the Park Falafel and Pizza Inc. This is not a diner but a Middle Eastern Cafe. After spending ten years traveling to Tel Aviv to see my daughter, I was delighted to find a Middle Eastern café in Hudson featuring many of the foods I love but can’t normally find in the area, at least not all in the same place. Brian Herman teamed with Alana Hauptman to open a low cost kosher restaurant right across from the park in Hudson. They hired CIA graduate Jason Cukersten, who is up to Tel Aviv standards.

I would suggest trying the shakshuka, an Arab breakfast of eggs baked in a peppery tomato sauce or if that is too experimental, the Park offers a more traditional breakfast served with a side of Israeli salad, chopped tomatoes and cucumbers. Don’t stop with breakfast. All the Middle Eastern foods are offered: hummus, tabbouleh, baba ghannouj, falafel, beet root salad, and Israeli bean soup. And since this is a kosher restaurant: vegan individual pizza. In addition, take-out, bulk items and party packages are offered.

11. N. 7th Street, Hudson. Open every day 9:30 am to 9 pm and Sunday 11 am–9 pm. Breakfast served 9:30 to noon. 518-828-5500

— Mary Leonard

Edo Sushi has relocated from Hyde Park to Rhinebeck, all the way east on Route 308 near Milan and it’s nice to have them out this way. The ambience is quiet, the place is understated, with dolls on the mantelpiece and geisha art all about.

Both times I shared a sashimi platter—chef’s choice—18 pieces for dinner $22; for lunch 8 pieces $11.50, both with a choice of soup and/or other selections. Each time the miso soup arrived lukewarm, but tasty with lots of tofu. The sashimi platter was beautifully designed and decorated with cucumbers arrayed as fans emanating from red radishes, adorned with pickled ginger mounds and strands of daikon radish among the chef’s choice of tuna, salmon, yellowtail, fluke, whitefish and striped bass. The rice, on the side, was delicately dusted with sesame seeds.

At lunch we also shared a yaki soba platter mounded high with veggies and chicken, definitely enough for two and a steal at $7.50. The Tuna Martini ($12) is a lightly fried (for two seconds) slab of tuna in a whisper of tempura, then thinly sliced and arrayed around a martini glass filled with a sauce that prompted one friend to decry its overabundance of mayo.

There are very long lists of appetizers and special rolls to choose from, side dishes, soups and salads, and even an oriental menu featuring kim chee with tofu; bbq spare ribs, short ribs; and lots more.

I like having a sushi place out this way—sushi in the countryside!

1094 Route 308, Rhinebeck, 845-835-8402. Lunch Tue–Sat, 11:30 am–2:30 pm; dinner 4:30–9 pm but until 10 pm Fri–Sat & Sun 3–9 pm.

— Carol Lee